When selecting a stick electrode, it has to be specifically designed for the work that needs to be done. In the welding industry, there are standards and codes set forth by the American Welding Society that classify each electrode with detailed labeling.
Eight main types of metal are used when welding, each coming with its own code and requirements for welding equipment.
If you don’t know how to select the best electrode for your upcoming job, take a look at the charts and information below, breaking down each category, requirement, and code.
The Eight Codes for Classification
There are eight codes created by the AWS to classify each type of electrode based on the metal it is intended to weld.
- 1 - carbon steel
- 3 - aluminum alloys
- 4 - stainless steel
- 5 - low-alloy steels
- 6 - copper alloys
- 11 - nickel alloys electrodes
- 13 - electrodes for surfacing alloys
- 15 - cast iron welding
The type of metal most frequently used is mild steel or carbon steel, identified as A5.1.For that reason, much of the article will be based on electrodes used for that type of metal.
With that said, each electrode can still be identified the same way, no matter which codes it is designed for.
Stick Welding Electrode Classification
The classification for stick welding electrodes is easily broken down by the digits assigned to them. There are various types of electrodes dedicated to different types of metals.
The last two digits in each number specify the type of coating and current the electrode is made for. These coatings typically come in three different types, basic, cellulosic, and rutile.
Basic electrodes are calcium compounds with shielding gas that is mainly C02. Cellulosic electrodes are cellulose with shielding gas resulting in hydrogen+ CO2. And lastly, rutile electrodes are titania, mainly resulting in CO2 shielding gas.
In the stick welding amperage chart below, we have examples of each coating associated with the last two digits found on each electrode used in stick welding. This help determines what the various options are designed for and which ones should be used at different times.
Electrode (2-Digit) Classification # |
Coating |
Type of Current |
10 |
High Cellulose Sodium |
DC+ |
11 |
High Cellulose Potassium |
AC, DC+, DC- |
12 |
High Titania Sodium |
AC, DC |
13 |
High Titania Potassium |
AC, DC+, |
14 |
Iron Powder, Titania |
AC, DC+, DC- |
15 |
Low Hydrogen Sodium |
DC+ |
16 |
Low Hydrogen Potassium |
AC, DC+ |
27 |
Iron Powder Iron Oxide |
AC, DC+, DC- |
18 |
Iron Powder, Low Hydrogen Potassium |
AC, DC+, DC- |
So what are the other letters and numbers on the label? Each digit has a purpose. The last two, as you know, represent the coating and current. The first digit is usually an E, for the electrode. This letter may not be incorporated into every product.
The first and second digit is the ksi, or the minimum strength tensile. The third number is the welding position recommended for the electrode.
- 1- all position electrode
- 2- horizontal or flat electrode
- 3- flat position electrode
- 4- all positions (downward travel for vertical positions only.)
Example: Stick Welding electrode E7018
- E= Electroid
- 70= KSI
- 1= All positions
- 8= Iron powder, low hydrogen potassium coating, and AC, DC+, DC- current.
What Is the Coating?
The different types of coating on the electrodes produce different types of welds. Rutile electrodes produce a smoother arc with fewer fumes and sparks. This is the best type of coating for beginners because it is easier to control and creates an easy-to-remove slag.
Cellulosic-coated electrodes are ideal for heavy-duty operations such as pipe welding. This material creates a thin slag, offering a better view of your weld puddle.
Basic electrode coating consists of a high level of iron powder and calcium carbonate creating a tiny amount of moisture during the weld. This makes solid and durable welds with no cracking on all types of metals, even dirty ones. Basic electrodes are often a go-to on ships and offshore oil and gas applications.
Stick Welding Electrode Amperage Range
When it comes to stick welding, another factor to consider when selecting an electrode is the rod diameter. Each rod diameter produces a different amperage range.
Electrode |
Diameter |
Amperage Range |
6010/6011 |
3/32” |
40-85 |
1/8” |
75-125 |
|
5/32” |
110-165 |
|
3/16” |
140-210 |
|
7/32” |
160-250 |
|
1/4” |
210-315 |
|
6012 |
1/16” |
20-40 |
5/64” |
25-60 |
|
3/32” |
35-85 |
|
1/8” |
80-140 |
|
3/16” |
140-120 |
|
1/4” |
250-400 |
|
6013 |
1/16” |
20-40 |
5/64” |
35-60 |
|
3/32” |
40-90 |
|
1/8” |
80-130 |
|
5/32” |
105-180 |
|
3/16” |
150-230 |
|
7/32” |
210-300 |
|
1/4” |
250-350 |
|
7014 |
3/32” |
80-125 |
1/8” |
110-165 |
|
5/32” |
150-210 |
|
3/16” |
200-275 |
|
7/32” |
255-340 |
|
1/4” |
330-415 |
|
7018 |
3/32” |
65-100 |
1/8” |
110-165 |
|
5/32” |
150-220 |
|
3/16” |
200-275 |
|
7/32” |
260-340 |
|
1/4” |
320-400 |
Difference Between Amperage and Current
When we talk about the current of a weld, we discuss the number of welding materials produced during the welding process. The amperage is the strength of the current produced, which greatly impacts the melt-off rate and whether you get deep penetration into the base metal.
The amperage is critical to ensure the weld is not only secure but creates a smooth finish. It will concave or flatten if there is too much amperage or too little. In the worst-case scenarios, the wrong amperage can lead to no fusion.
Summing Things Up
One thing you don’t want to risk when welding is choosing the wrong electrode for the job. This article is full of advice, tips, and charts to ensure you know what to look for based on metal, material thickness, and more.